Using Resin on my Paintings

A great deal of interest shown in my resin paintings leads to a number of questions. Because of this I thought it might interest the reader to see how I go about the final stage of applying the resin.

I feel that this finish is not appropriate for all my paintings and tend to use it on those that fit in the abstract or semi abstract catogory. Whilst working on these I tend to use acrylic texture paste together with silver, gold and copper leaf. In some I have used string, washers and beads. When I am satisfied with both the texture and colour palette which I have built up through many layers, it is time to apply the resin.

I obtain the resin from Elichem and use their clear epoxy resin which comes in two parts - the epoxy resin and the hardener. These must be mixed accurately to a ratio of 100:40 by weight, or 2:1 by volume. I prefer the second method and use a pyrex measuring jug.

It is important to check the levels at eye level and when mixing make sure that you scrape the mixture evenly from the sides of the vessel. Mixing takes approximately 4 mins and you must try not to get air bubbles into the mix.

I put a protective cover on the table and then I cover four or six ramikin dishes in cling film. These are used to lift the canvas off the surface allowing any excess to run off. I check that the canvas is flat and level using a small spirit level. The picture below shows the canvas sitting on the ramikin dishes with six clingfilm covered mugs around the outside of the canvas. These support a cover which will prevent dust falling on the surface during the curing time.

Once the canvas is flat I pour the resin slowly over the canvas and if there are high points I make sure these are covered first. I use the mixing stick to spread the mixture evenly and let it self level. I like all the canvas to be covered so bending over to examine the surface from all sides is important to make sure I don't have "holes" in the resin. Then I use a board or cardboard to cover over the whole canvas and drape something over the edges to shield the picture from dust.

It is now necessary to be very patient as although it takes only 3 hours to be touch dry I have discovered the hard way that it is better to wait 5 or 6 days (when it is fully cured) before attempting to do any further work on it, such as removing any drips from the underside. These can be filed or sanded off.

Clearing up is done by wiping out the pyrex jug with kitchen paper and then cleaning with acetone to remove all traces. Later when the picture is fully cured you can remove the cling fim from the mugs and ramekins and restore to be used again.